Our journey home - 12 days with a few stops on the way and 1,015.9 nautical miles.

We had a fairly frantic day preparing to leave Airlie Beach but it eventually all got done. We were joined by Linda and Sharon who arrived on Saturday and were immediately put to work filling water tanks, putting on the jack stays (onto which one clips ones tethers during sea passages) and other assorted boat jobs. Finally the jobs were nearly completed and we went to the marina bar for cocktails then on to Mr Bones for a final meal. At Mr Bones they had prepared a delicious feast for us and we shall miss our meals there and all his friendly staff. By the time we finally left the marina next day we were two hours behind schedule. The wind was mainly easterly but a bit variable.  We were on our way. We made for Shaw Island where we arrived in the dark but we are very familiar with the anchorages there so that was no problem. The wind forecast for the next few days was mainly favourable northerly and easterly winds so we wanted to make our way as far south as possible. We hoisted the spinnaker and charged along. However after finally furling it, the outer casing of the halyard broke and jammed on the halyard diverted so that we were unable to lower it. We lashed it to the mast to sort out later. We made our next stop Great Keppel Island, a distance of 223nm. We anchored in Long Beach at about one o'clock in the morning. It's always interesting to see exactly where you are when you wake up and see it in daylight. It's a pretty bay and there was not a breath of wind. A swim after two days of not getting undressed is the most glorious of things!  By mid morning the wind had got up and gone round towards the south so we relocated to Resort Bay on the western side of the island. First thing we had to do was to sort out the spinnaker  we regretted not doing it before the wind got up as it involved a trip up the mast which was no easy job for John. However we got it all sorted by moving the diverterto the spinnaker topping lift and cutting off a little under a meter of the spinnaker halyard. We went ashore after lunch and walked up to a lookout with lovely views. We were all looking forward to a cold drink from a shack on the beach on our return from our walk but when we got back there they had just locked up and were driving away. We got up early next day, had a quick swim and were off again. We had to beat into strengthening winds and made slow progress initially. However the wind gradually moved round towards the east and strengthened to about 18 knots so we reefed the main and were able to hold our course by keeping hard on the wind. Eventually in the early evening we shook out the reef and enjoyed some lovely sailing with the wind slowly becoming more northerly thus enabling us to ease the sheets. As the night wore on the wind died so that eventually, soon after midnight, we had to furl the jib and turn on the engine. By dawn the sea was flat calm with not a breath of wind. It's very beautiful but doesn't get us very far! Around midday the engine went off and the wind was soon up to 15 knots on a broad reach. To add to our pleasure and excitement Suzie caught a wonderful fish and we were able to have pan fried fillets in a lemon and cream sauce for dinner - delicious!  There was enough fish for another meal which we kept to make a curry. We were aiming to sail between Fraser Island and the mainland, down the Great Sandy Strait. We have not done this before as it is very shallow in places and it means working the tides. We therefore sailed on towards the north entry point and decided to spend the night in the marina at Urangan. Fortunately the passage through the sand banks is well lit and we arrived at the marina at 9pm - just in time to have a drink and wedges at the Boat Club. We walked in totally unwashed and looking like a rather wild and woolly bunch but it was most enjoyable. Next day, after welcome showers etc,  we examined our options. The really shallow part of the Straits, Sheridan Flats, is a little over half way from the top end and this is where it is particularly shallow and needs to be done on a rising tide within two hours of high water. There are some very helpful agencies along the way and I spoke to them to get the necessary information. We had intended to leave the marina and spend the night anchored at Kingfisher resort. However it was blowing quite strongly from the north and it did not look promising from the point of having a peaceful night. Thus we elected to have a lazy day and make a 4am start the next to get to the flats at 11am to work the tide across the flats. I'm not sure that I would call it a lazy day, but we had a very enjoyable and busy day. We filled a gas bottle, stowed the dingy, filled the water tanks, caught up with email, Lea and Suzie cooked the fish curry,  then we walked along to the splendid pier and out to the end. We sat and had an ice cream then returned refreshed to the boat. After dinner on the water front we had an early night. We were up at first light, filled the diesel and motored out of the marina. It was flat calm as we made our way towards Sheridan Flats. We were a bit ahead of schedule for the tide so we anchored for coffee and a quick dip. The views of Fraser Island were glorious and there were swarms of butterflies - a very beautiful sight. The Flats are well marked with lateral beacons but was an interesting piece of pilotage to make our way through, watching the depth very carefully. As the numbers fell to what I would usually consider to be alarmingly low, we crept on slowly fully confident that we would get through as, of course we did. Our next night was planned to be at Garry's anchorage (yet more very shallow water to negotiate). It was very pretty.  However, no sooner had we anchored and made lunch we were surrounded by thousands of small bush flies. We all decided that in spite of the beauty, we could not stay for the night as planned. So off we set again. Once out into the main channel, the wind suddenly got up from an unfriendly direction (not forecast) and we had a problem deciding where we might anchor for the night. We all agreed that we needed a good sleep after a very early start and that we wanted flat water. Finally we realised that the only place was Inskip Point which does not have a good reputation for being a peaceful place. In this case we were lucky. The wind dropped, the sea calmed, we had a lovely sunset and enjoyed the girls' magnificent fish curry, we did the crossword and had an early night. The next hurdle was the Wide Bay bar. We had a bit of a lie in as high tide was not until 1.30pm. One is advised to cross the bar on a rising tide 2-3 hours before. VMR at Tin Can Bay are very helpful. I had rung them a couple of days before to get their advice and tide times. They also supply the latest waypoint coordinates for the crossing as the sand bars are constantly shifting. They asked us to call back before setting off and they were able to tell me that a large motor boat had crossed the bar at low water a few hours earlier and had reported that it was calm and he had no difficulties crossing. We put the coordinates into our chart plotter and set off with a degree of trepidation. Although there was breaking water to starboard and I found it quite hard to stay on course as we were being pushed around. However, it was a fantastic joint navigation effort and we came out the other side with no dramas. I would not like to do it in bad weather nor in the dark! And so we set our course south. The wind had a fair bit of south in it which was not forecast so we had to put in a couple of tacks to round Double Island point. The advantage of this was that we sailed in close to Rainbow beach and the multi-coloured sand cliffs which are very beautiful. Gradually the wind went round to the East and then became more northerly. It also strengthened. We found ourselves heading a fair way off the coast keeping about 150 degrees to the wind. The advantage was that we got out into the East Australia current which gave us an extra 2-3 knots at times. By 6am the wind was constantly around 20 knots so, as it was forecast to increase even more, we put in two reefs and furled the jib a little. It barely slowed us down and we were making 8-10 knots and even just touched 13 knots as we surfed down the waves. We covered 142 nm in the first 24 hours. Considering our very slow start out over the bar then beating into a light wind, we were very pleased with our progress. Eventually we gybed back towards the coast but then we began to lose the current. The wind by then was 20-25 gusting over 30 knots. Thus we put the 3rd reef in the main and rolled the jib a little more. On The second night we eventually took the main down completely and still managed to career along at 7-8 knots. Around the middle of the night the wind died away and by morning we were motoring. As the forecast was for continuing light winds we made the decision to put into Coffs Harbour to refuel. On our way we had several great dolphin experiences but one in particular the Dolphins played along beside us while John and Lea were on watch for over an hour providing plenty of entertainment. Shortly before arriving we also saw several pods of whales - the only ones we had seen in several weeks. It must have been the stragglers making their way south back to Antarctica. Regular readers of the blog may remember that Coffs marina was all but destroyed earlier in the year, three days after we left, by the storm caused by the intense east coast low, so we were interested to see how the repairs were progressing. The marina is still closed to visiting yachtsmen but the fuel dock is still open. We arrived in about 15-20 knots and pulled up to the, refurbished fuel jetty. There was much building activity and I think that they are hoping to reopen by Christmas. The fuel dock was certainly more user friendly for yachts like us although the approach would have been very tricky in a stronger wind due to fishing boats being moored right beside it. That hopefully will change when all the work is finished. As we left the dock so did all the trawlers who barged straight ahead of us putting out their large booms as they motored out of the narrow marina entrance. Once in the outer harbour we raised our sails putting in two reefs as the sky looked suddenly very dark. We had not been out long before we were hit by high winds and some alarmingly close thunder and lightening. The rain was torrential but an hour later the wind was once again dying away and on went the motor. And so the last leg began. During our last afternoon at sea we were able to hoist the sails and have a glorious broad reach for a few hours but by sundown the wind had deserted us and we motored. We entered the Port Stephens heads not long after midnight and were safely tied up in our pen at 2am. We fell into bed after a quick tidy up but were awake again early to start tidying up the boat. Linda's brother kindly arrive with his large ute into which we piled all our boat gear and then David  came to transport us. And so ended this year's sailing adventure. We had covered about 3,800 nautical miles, had some glorious sailing with many friends and had lived on the boat for nearly six months. It's good to be home. Three days later we were still rocking but that is gradually wearing off. 

Sorting out the spinnaker

Relaxing at sundown.

Refuelling at dawn at Urangan.

About to hoist the sail.

Flat calm approaching Sheriden Flats.

Lea at the helm soon after altering course to avoid the ship in the background. 

Dolphins playing beside us.

Entering the Heads at Port Stephens.

Kirby's second week

 We went to Stonehaven on the Western side of Hook Island next day. Here we picked up a buoy and spent the morning snorkelling round the fringing reef. We spent the night there and it blew hard all night. Next stop was Blue Pearl Bay on the western side of Hayman Island. This is reputed to be one of the best snorkelling and diving spots in the Whitsundays and there was certainly some excellent coral and lots of fish. After lunch we went on round the top of Hayman, mainly because we have not done that before. We then beat down to the top of Hook. There are several bays here where we have often stopped for lunch and a snorkel but have never stayed the night as it is said to be swelly. We chose Luncheon Bay and picked up a buoy. We needed to stay here as the plan was to make a very early start next day for the outer reef. We had a horrendous night with swell, very little wind and the buoy banging against the hull all night! We had chosen Thursday for the reef trip as there had been too much wind on all the other days and Thursday's forecast looked OK. However, it meant that we would not be able to stay overnight at the reef as we have to be back in Airlie on Friday, hence the early start. We were all relieved to get started at 4am. By the time we had got organised and dropped the buoy it was just beginning to get light and there was a lovely sunrise.  It's 17 nm to the reef and it took about 3.5 hours on a broad reach. It was quite an amazing sight to come across the reef in the middle of the deep blue ocean. We wove our way in through the coral bommies and picked up a buoy at Bait Reef.  It was quite hair raising - thank goodness for chart plotters! However, they only give a rough outline where the bommies are so one has to keep a very careful look out. We spent the morning snorkelling in the clear blue waters and the coral and fish were superb. In spite of the water being 28 degrees, one gets quite cold after only 30-40 minutes. Dropping the buoy was also a little anxiety provoking as well as there was very little room to drop back having dropped the buoy rope. However, all was well and we set off back towards Hook in about 15 kn, again on a broad reach though we were gradually headed as the afternoon progressed.  We were safely anchored in the still, sheltered waters of Macona Inlet by captain's hour after an adventurous and wonderful day. It was our last night before returning to Airlie for a final dinner with Kirby. We were able to hoist the spinnaker making the sail back fast and very enjoyable. Once back in the marina we borrowed a car for a couple of hours and rushed round the shops to restock for the return journey. 

Sunset at Stonehaven.

Not sure if it's a parrot fish?  Blue Pearl Bay

Setting off for the outer reef at first light.

Leaving the outer reef.

Spinnaker run home!

Kirby's first few days.

Kirby eventually arrived about five hours late due to the late arrival of her plane. She had left home at three o'clock that morning so she had had a very tiring and frustrating day. Once she arrived we set sail, leaving the marina at about 5.30pm and headed for Cid. For both Lea and Kirby it was their first experience of night sailing and therefore of having to steer a compass course instead of doing things visually. It was only a day after full moon so we weren't in the dark for too long before the large moon came up. In the morning we headed in very light winds down to Lindeman Island. When we had called two weeks ago for Rosie to look at the trapeze rig, Lea had dropped an SD card and we stopped there to pick it up. Sadly the caretaker wasn't there so we may have to call again. We then went just round the west side of Seaforth Island where we anchored for lunch and a swim.  It does not have a name but we christened it "Lea's Bay", then on to Shaw for the night.  We anchored in Bill Bob Bay on the southern side as the winds were easterly. Suzie and Kirby dangled lines in the water and had a few nibbles before first Suzie lost her whole hook and immediately Kirby lost hers, presumably to the same largish fish who would now have a rather sore mouth with two hooks in it! Next day we continued south arriving at Brampton Island after a lovely sail down, for a late lunch. We had one of those horrible rolly nights when none of us got much sleep and everything that could rattle and bang did so. We motored round to the northern Brampton anchorage next morning so that we could row ashore and climb up to the peak to admire the views. It was a three hour round trip and quite strenuous in the heat. The walk, fortunately, was mostly shady but, of course, we are not used to using our legs! It was very good for us. After a swim and lunch we headed in a pleasant wind up to Goldsmith Island for the night.  We anchored in Roylan Bay with three other boats.  We all prayed for no swell and were rewarded with a much better but not perfectly calm night. In the morning we headed north again and anchored on the northern side of Shaw. The next day we left for Cid harbour. We had a SE wind about 5-10 knots so were able to raise the spinnaker. It's always fun and, since getting the new torsion line on it, furling has become much easier. The next day we all went ashore in the dingy and Suzie, Lea and Kirby all walked up to the peak while John and I, who have done that walk before, walked to Dugong Bay. This walk is only an hour return through lovely rainforest while the peak walk is 2.5 hours and rather more strenuous but one is rewarded with magnificent 360 degree views from the top. John and I met a lovely couple from Lemontree Passage which is further up Port Stephens where we keep our boat. We look forward to catching up with them again either on our way down south or once we return home. After our walks and a swim we went to Frittata Bay which is just a short distance away. However, a swell was developing and we decided to move on to Macona. As we were about to move, it started to rain and by the time we were off Macona it was pouring and the visibility was very poor. It looked as if the swell might also be rolling into Macona as well so we went on to Nara just next door. It was a good decision and we had a nice quiet night. We were very grateful for the roll down sides that we have on our bimini and were very snug and dry in the cockpit with them down. We had intended to go snorkelling in Cateran Bay next day but we then realised that we were low on diesel so motored down to Hamilton Island to refuel. It was also a chance to dispose of our rubbish and buy a few more fresh vegetables. We sailed back and anchored north of May's Bay but south of Frittata, on the western side of Whitsunday island. This is another place that has no name so we named it Indulgence Bay. This was because Suzie had caught a wonderful spotted mackerel which was delicious eating. 

Putting Kirby to work.

Our navigators.

View from Brampton Peak.

Time to relax when you have willing crew!

Suzie and her delicious spotted mackerel.

A short trip with Tanya

We don't have much time between trips so, the day after the Mr Bones day out we were joined by Tanya who is a mental health nurse on Palm Island. She holds a day skipper qualification so was a very useful crew member. On her first day we sailed 42 nm down to Shaw island, close hauled all the way in about 15 knots. We had been held up at the start of the day as our wind generator was returned after having a repair, so it was just on dark when we arrived. Next day we beat down to Thomas Island to have a more leisurely day. Suzie is a keen fisher person.  The day before we had spent a very worthwhile and amusing time in a local fishing shop. The owner was very kind and patient and thoroughly entertaining as he explained various fishing techniques and gave Suzie a lesson and sold a lure on which she was sure to catch something. There were lots of fish jumping round the end of Shaw and Suzie had her line out. We had great excitement as she caught a large frigate mackerel, a member of the tuna family. Sadly, although we did have two meals from it, we all agreed that it wasn't the best tasting fish. The rest will be used for bait. When we arrived at Thomas we had the anchorage to ourselves for most of the day and enjoyed swimming and snorkelling and mid-afternoon had a brisk sail back to the northern end of Shaw. Next day in a 15-20 knot wind and one reef in the main and a slightly reefed jib, we headed north again, through the Solway passage and anchored at Whitehaven beach for lunch. It was very blustery with a choppy sea and strong gusts of wind. This didn't stop us swimming and later we continued on to Macona Inlet. The night was very windy but next day we decided to sail across to Cateran Bay on Border Island. We put two reefs in the main and had a beat across in very lumpy seas and winds of 20-25 knots. However, of course there was no one else in Cataran Bay so we picked up our usual buoy and snorkelled. The water had been stirred up a bit by the wind so the visibility wasn't great but the water was warm and it was enjoyable. The Bay was quite calm but strong bullets occurred at frequent intervals. The sail back was down wind and very fast. We considered staying in Nara Inlet for the night but there were a lot of other boats there (most of whom we suspect had been there all day sheltering from the wind) so we turned back and went into Macona again. There was a fair bit of swell which made the first half of the night somewhat uncomfortable but after midnight it settled down and the wind started to moderate. After morning swims we set sail again for Airlie Beach, shook out the reefs and had a lovely reach back in about 15 knots and we're all very sad when we had to take the sails down and enter the marina. So now we are back. We've restocked the boat for our next trip starting tomorrow, we've had showers and a good meal ashore and sadly we have said goodbye to Tanya. Tomorrow we shall do the washing and meet our new crew member, Kirby. 

Suzie and her fish.

Lea going for a snorkell.

Tanya in her element at the helm.

Mr Bones day out

MOur favourite eatery in Airlie Beach, as regular readers will know, is Mr Bones. It is owned by Mark who employs the most delightful, mainly English, backpackers here on working holiday visas. On Monday we had a Mr Bones sailing day.  We set off from Airlie with Mark, his son, Noah, Cat, whose birthday it was and her partner, Andy. There was lovely sunshine but very little wind so we mainly motored to Palm Bay on Long Island where we picked up Jake and his parents, Lisa and Ian. Jake and his family are from Newcastle, England and it was Lisa and Ian's last day in Australia. We motored to Sandy Bay on South Mole where we anchored for lunch and a swim. The water was crystal clear and warm and we had a lovely leisurely lunch and swim before sailing in a very gentle breeze back to Airlie. Ian and Suzie tried fishing on the way back but, sadly, caught nothing. Lisa and Ian both agreed that it was a perfect way to end their Australian holiday. 

  

John, Mark and Noah pick up Jake at Palm Bay.

Lunch at Sandy Bay.

Returning to Airlie Beach.

Two lovely daughters and a lovely German friend on her gap year

The weather forecast for the next week did not look too promising.  We set off in a northerly from Airlie early afternoon after meeting daughters, Suzie and Rosie, and Lea from Germany, who all arrived from Newcastle in the morning. We anchored in Cid Harbour and had a horrible night as a large swell developed. It was not a good start for the girls and none of us slept well. It was also unusual to be so uncomfortable in Cid. Next day was grey and cloudy and we sailed south to Lindeman. Rosie had been in contact with the caretaker there as the report used to be owned by Club Med and, at that time they had a flying trapeze rig which is now in pieces sitting idle. We anchored off the old resort and the girls rowed ashore to go and look at the rig. Rosie took a lot of photos and will circulate them among her circus friends to see if it can be of use to any of them. We were undecided where to spend the night as the wind was forecast to go from a light northerly to a stronger southerly during the night. We decided to go across to Shaw Island and to be prepared for the southerly even if it were a bit windy for the first half of the night. It was a good decision as we were very comfortable and did not have to make a very early start next morning to get ourselves off a lee shore. In the morning there was a brisk southerly blowing and we had a fast and somewhat bumpy sail up to the Solway passage. As soon as we entered the passage the sea calmed down. It was very overcast so Lea's first sighting of Whitehaven beach was not very spectacular. However once we had anchored off the beach, the sun came out and the water turned its usual turquoise. We swam, rowed to the beach, walked along the beach and had lunch during a leisurely afternoon and then sailed the short distance up to Tongue Bay. We were a little worried about swell arising during the night but all was well. We have learned not to pick up a buoy there, even if one is a free. We anchor as far down as possible, well away from the other yachts. That evening we had our best ever dugong experience. Just before sunset we saw several dugongs not very far from the boat; but then a mother and calf swam right up to the boat. They were very close to each other with the calf being very well protected by its mother. It was wonderful to watch. In the morning we put the outboard onto the dingy and went to the other side of the bay to do the Hill Inlet lookout walk. The sun was out and it was as magnificent as ever. Regular blog readers will know that we have done this walk many, many times but it never ceases to amaze and delight me. Every time we go we see something different; the tide is at a different height, the sun is in a different position, the clouds are different etc. And so, after another stunning morning climbing to the lookout and walking in the dazzling white sand, we upped anchor and made for Frittata bay for the night. The forecast was for quite strong southeasterlies the next day but we decided to head for Cateran Bay any way and to come back if the wind were too strong. We had a fast sail across, picked up our usual buoy and had the bay to ourselves until mid-afternoon. We were quite well sheltered but there were a few strong bullets (wind gusts known as catabatic winds) but it did not detract from the snorkelling. From there we returned to Nara Inlet for the night. There were quite a few boats there who had obviously decided not to venture out that day. Next day we decided to have a lazy day and took the dingy up to the top of the inlet and walked up to a cave with aboriginal paintings. It's an interesting site where you can listen to recordings of Aboriginal people talking about their land, their attachment to it and of their parents and grandparents' memories of their lives and traditions. In the afternoon we motored round to Macona Inlet just next door for a change in scene. Here we had a motor round in the dingy and admired the wonderful rock formations along the side of the inlet. Next day we sailed out of Macona and round the top of Hook Island. We picked up a buoy in Butterfly Bay having arrived just as someone else was leaving. There were only a fraction the number of boats there than there had been a couple of weeks ago. The snorkelling was great and we cooked scones in the solar oven before sailing off and heading for Airlie Beach. We arrived just as the sun was setting and in time to have a quick shower before heading off the Mr Bones for a farewell dinner for Rosie. We were all very sad to say goodbye to her next morning. 

Rosie at Hill Inlet.

Aboriginal cave paintings at Nara Inlet.

Rock formations at Nara Inlet

Meike and Stefan's visit.

After all our very mixed weather, the wind has now gone round to the north and the sun is shining. We are forecast to have northerlies for the next few days so, having been joined by friends Mieke and Stefan, we planned to sail down to some of the more southerly islands. The first day they did not arrive until mid afternoon and, in almost no wind, we motored across to Cid Harbour where we arrived after dark. The next three weeks up here are the busiest of the year. It is Queensland followed by NSW school holidays. Next day there was also no wind but we motored south under slightly cloudy skies to the south side of Thomas Island. There are two anchorages marked here. In one there were about half a dozen boats while there were none in the other. We had the second anchorage to ourselves. We swam and enjoyed the quiet, peaceful beauty. We had breeze on and off the next day and continued our way south. We must have been sailing on whale highway - we kept seeing whales in every direction. None was very close but they were all over the place. It is coming towards the end of the season. Most of the whales have had their calves and have already headed south back to the Antarctic waters for the summer.  We spent the night in Western Bay on the west side of Brampton Island. There was only one other boat in the large bay. The tides are larger here - about a 4m range - and there is a wide fringing reef that dries at low water. Mieke and Stefan rowed ashore at high water and then snorkelled round. The coral is not spectacular but they found many fish. In the morning we motored round to the anchorage on the northern side of the island. There was a resort here but it closed down six years ago. It is in a very beautiful spot and it's a shame that the buildings are so neglected. There is a caretaker who is paid $4000 a month. His job is purely to keep people off the resort premises, not to do any maintenance. He tells us that there are plans to build an expensive eco resort for about 20 guests but nothing has happened yet. We had only planned to stay here for the morning while walking some of the trails on Brampton. However it was so lovely and there was no wind that we decided to stay the night. Stefan caught us a large Trevally for dinner. Some of the reef fish contain ciguatera so one is warned not to eat anything over 4kg in weight nor to have a second meal off any fish. This was quite a large fish with plenty for two meals but we played it safe and had one delicious meal and the rest has been used as bait. Finally next day we had some wind. After the usual morning swim we tore ourselves away from this lovely anchorage and set off north again in a predominantly easterly breeze of 10-12 knots. It was a glorious sail. We sailed up between Linne and Goldsmith islands then anchored at Roylan Bay on Goldsmith for lunch.  We made damper and swam while it cooked in the solar oven. After lunch we sailed on to Shaw Island. Stefan caught a number of fish but we put them back as none was very large. We sailed north next day in a good wind. We sailed through the Solway passage and anchored off Whitehaven beach for a swim and lunch. Then on to Tongue for the night. To our surprise there were not that many boats in there or we would have gone on to Apostle Bay. The tide was high at about 8am next day so we made an early start and with no breakfast rowed ashore to do the Hill Inlet walk. It was as beautiful as ever and we enjoyed walking along the cool, white sand. After this we went back south again. We looked at stopping at one of the bay's on the south side of Whitsunday island. There were quite a few boats anchored in all of them so, after sticking our nose in, we decided to keep heading south. We anchored in Plantation bay on the south side of Lindeman Island for the night. With the northerlies continuing, the next day we sailed over the north end of Shaw Island and looked at the bays on the east side of Shaw, none of which we had been into before. The first, Queen Margrethe Bay, we thought would be the least likely to be occupied but surprisingly there were quite a few boats there. The second, Roberta Bay, only had a couple but the third was empty so we had the Bay to ourselves all night. In the morning we headed north starting with very little wind but gradually strengthening to 12 knots. We skirted the top of Haslewood Island and investigated Chalkies beach for a lunch stop. However we preferred Windy Bay where we anchored, swam and ate lunch. Then on to Frittata Bay for the night. This is on the west side of Whitsunday Island. If you go through the Hook channel from the East and then turn left it's just down that western side. It's not listed in the book as an anchorage but we used it a couple of weeks ago and found it to be well sheltered. We named it Frittata Bay as we had just eaten frittata for dinner! We had a good spinnaker run that afternoon until it got a bit tangled as we gybed it so we had dropped it without it being furled. It was too windy to do anything about it that evening so we left it until morning when there was no wind. It took but a few minutes to hoist and refurl it then we went straight off to Cateran Bay for some snorkelling. We picked up our usual buoy but very soon quite a few more yachts and motor boats joined us. We had a lovely morning there swimming and snorkelling, before heading  back to Frittata for another night. Next day we circumnavigated Hook stopping at Butterfly Bay for lunch and a snorkel. It was a lovely day with good sailing and warm sunshine. We spent the night in Macona before heading back to Airlie Beach next day. In the evening we feasted on coral trout which happened to be the fish of the day at a local restaurant kindly hosted by Stefan and Meike who left us next day. 

The passage between Brampton and Carlisle Islands.

Stefan and his delicious trevally. 

Sunrise at Hill Inlet. 

Snorkelling at Butterfly Bay. 

Ingrid and Joey's visit.

We had a very busy and extremely enjoyable few days away. Half the time was in Newcastle and the other half in Adelaide and Port Lincoln. Port Lincoln was to celebrate the 121st birthdays of our very good friends, Wendy and Jonathan, and it was a great opportunity to catch up with friends from our Yarawonga days from over 30 years ago.  Then back to Airlie Beach, re-provision the boat and, after a couple of days welcome Ingrid and her good friend Joey.  The weather was still a bit wet but the winds had subsided a little. As the week progressed the sun came out and we had the warmest days of winter so far with temperatures in the high 20s. We set off about 1.30 and had a lovely sail across to Cid Harbour which we almost made on one tack and were there in time for Joey and Ingrid to throw in the fishing lines and for us all to enjoy a beer as the sun went down. Next day we sailed down to Shaw Island where, once again Joey tried her luck fishing. She caught something very big which I really thought was going to break the rod. Sadly it eventually got away without us ever sighting it to enable identification. In the morning we sailed on down to Thomas Island for a swim and lunch.  On the way down John spotted a whale tail just disappearing under the water so he took the helm from Ingrid to enable her to have a good look once they reappeared. After some time during which nothing happened, she took the helm back and I said we'll take it back as soon as they come back and immediately they were there again quite close by. Eventually they swam off but we all kept looking over to starboard and I said, while we're all looking this way, they're probably all dancing behind us. As we all turned to look over the stern there they all were putting on a fine display of tail wagging. As we arrived at the island the sun was shining making it very beautiful. We were entertained by a couple of large turtles mating. There was much splashing as the male mounted the female and then they stayed locked together for a considerable length of time. We went back to Shaw for the night. Next day we sailed through the Solway passage and anchored off Whitehaven beach for a swim and lunch. Ingrid and Joey rowed ashore and walked along the beach. We decided against a night in Apostle Bay because of the swell so we sailed on, through the the Hook Passage. As time was getting on we decided to try a night at anchor just round the top and down the western side of Whitsunday Island. There were about three other boats spread out down the side although no anchorage is marked in 100 Magic Miles - the wonderful cruising guide to these islands. We had a flat, peaceful night and named it Frittata Bay after  our dinner that evening. Next day was spent snorkelling at Cateran Bay and then the night at Macona Inlet. When we came to anchor that night the electric anchor winch would not work. We've been having intermittent trouble with it but, in the past, have always got it working. We decided to drop manually. That meant that in the morning it would also have to be retrieved manually. This was hard work for John and the others - I was at the helm! In the old days we always did it manually but then we were in smaller boats with lighter chain and anchor. We sailed round the top o f Hook next day stopping at Luncheon Bay for a snorkel and lunch. Then back into Airlie in time for a celebratory meal ashore thanks to Ingrid and Joey. 

Fishing at sunset in Cid Harbour

The one that got away!

Hauling up the anchor. 

Turtle in Luncheon Bay

A week of amazing whale sightings but still no good photos!

Another quick turnaround (laundry, supermarket, cleaning, water tanks etc) after David and Lucy left and we welcomed Sharon. Those who read the blog last year will know that Sharon sailed with us for a couple of weeks in New Caledonia. The weather forecast was certainly better for the coming week than it had been for the previous one but the forecast did keep changing. We set off to Cid in a SE wind of a good strength ?15-20 knots - we still don't have a working wind instrument, since the incident with the neighbour's mast - and made it almost there on one tack before a wind shift forced a few tacks. Next day we made an early start to make the most of the south flowing flood tide to take us down the Hunt Channel and Fitzalan and Dent Passages, past Hamilton Island,  against the wind. Once through we turned the engine off and made for Thomas Island. It was grey and overcast with a strengthening head wind. However we made good time and anchored at Thomas Island with a bit of sunshine for a swim and lunch. In the afternoon we reached back to Shaw to anchor for the night. It was a good day's sailing in which we covered 37 nm. Next day we sailed very close to a mother and calf who appeared to be sleeping just off the North tip of Shaw Island. They just lay there lifting a pectoral fin to show its white underside and blowing off occasionally and not taking any notice of us. We sailed on round the western side of Workington Island and round the northern side of Hasle Wood to anchor in Windy Bay for a swim and lunch. Then we sailed on to Macona for the night. The forecast had changed. It had been for SE 15-25 knots for the whole week. That was why we had sailed south initially and thought that we would enjoy the rest of the week going back north with the wind. However it was now saying that there would be northerlies so our plans changed. The next day we went from Macona to Cateran Bay for lunch and a snorkel and then back to Nara for the night. We sighted some whales quite close by on the way but, while we were moored in Cateran we spotted a mother and calf and a third whale just off the north east point of Border Island, quite close to us, and they put on a fantastic show. The calf shot out clear of the water and one of the adult whales breached and they played around for some time before swimming off round the eastern side of the island. Because of the change in wind direction, we changed our plan to sail north and circumnavigate Hook Island, stopping to snorkel and perhaps stay the night at Butterfly Bay. Instead we headed for Tongue Inlet and anchored there. It was quite windy and the water choppy but Sharon and I rowed ashore and climbed up to the Hill Inlet lookout and down to the beach below. As Sharon was rowing back, two separate people came up to us in their dinghies with outboard motors to offer us a tow. It's very kind of them but  we declined both saying that we enjoyed rowing and that it is good exercise. They obviously thought that we were two crazy women. We were expecting our usual disturbed night in Tongue but were pleasantly surprised that the swell died down and we all slept well. Next day it was grey and cloudy and we sailed through the Solway Passage and, as we came round to the south side of Whitsunday Island we were greeted by the division one racing boats (it was Hamilton race week) just finishing their morning race. Modern racers all have either black or grey sails so, on a very grey day, it all looked extremely gloomy! We sailed on to anchor in Cid Harbour for the night. Next day a breezy sail brought us back to Airlie Beach to drop Sharon off. During the week we had many whale sightings, some of which were close up but none of which did we capture adequately on camera  - amazing none the less.

Back in Airlie, Sharon treated us to a lovely tapas lunch before we said goodbye to her. John and I went to Mr Bones for dinner and then left next day to fly home for 10 days. During this time we are going to Adelaide for two nights, where we are catching up with many friends and then on to Port Lincoln for two nights to attend Jonathan and Wendy's 121st birthday party. It's cold for us here in Newcastle and I'm not sure how we are going to survive Port Lincoln! We are very spoiled spending our winters in the tropics. The blog will continue on our return to Airlie. 

Pentecost Island on our way south.

Sleeping whales at the north of Shaw Island.

About to anchor in Nara.

A not very good selfie - I'll have to get a selfie stick!

Leaving the boat with David and Lucy

We had a very quick turnaround and David and Lucy flew in a few hours after Julie and Farley departed. David and Lucy had hired diving equipment which we loaded on to the boat and then we had a quick dash to the local fishing shop to get some appropriate fishing equipment plus some local advice on what and how we might catch. We set off in a good wind. The rods went out immediately and we caught a large blue fin tuna just off the point of North Mole. We enjoyed sashimi at captain's hour, beautiful pan fried fillets for dinner and delicious civiche for lunch next day. The only problem with catching fish is that it makes a terrible mess and they need so much preparation. However, it is well worth the effort. We anchored for a peaceful night in Macona and then left early to sail to Cateran Bay on Boarder Island. Here David and Lucy had their first and, I think, their only dive as the weather deteriorated from then. However that day it was lovely, though the water was a little chilly so we couldn't stay in for too long. After lunch we sailed round to Cid harbour for the night. There was a beautiful double rainbow as we anchored. Sadly one doesn't get rainbows without rain and sure enough the rain came. We were very grateful for the roll-down sides on the new bimini and we were able to sit in the cockpit and remain dry. In the morning it was grey, wet and windy. As the wind was dead against us we motored down to Hamilton where we were leaving Essex Girl to David and Lucy and they were meeting up with a group of friends who were chartering a catamaran for a week. Sadly, I think the young ones had lousy weather for the whole week but they still seemed to have enjoyed themselves. 

John and I caught a ferry back to Airlie, hired a car and did a road trip up to Townsville, about 300 km to the north. We returned to Airlie on Friday in time to take Essex Girl's lines as she came into the marina. David and Lucy had a friend with them, Darren, from the other boat and who had to get back to work before the others. We all had dinner together and then said good bye next morning. 

The fish!

Just got the anchor down  before the rain started.

Sunday roast on the boat.

Whales everywhere but no good photos!

We had a few lovely days sailing with friends Julie and Farley.  Both had sailed with us once on our old boat, Sankara and Farley had done a fair bit in his native America.  The weather forecast was not great – rather too much wind – and their visit was all too short.  We decided to head to Nara Inlet for the first night thinking that we should have a fairly calm night.  We had a glorious sail across, hard on the wind but made it on one tack.  We estimated the strength to be nearly 20 knots but our wind instruments were still not working following the incident with our neighbour’s mast.  We need not have worried about Julie and the strong wind.  She took the helm and managed it as if she had been doing it all her life and she enjoyed the exhilarating experience.  We sighted whales, reasonably close up, just an hour out of Airlie Beach.  Nara Inlet was not as calm as we would have liked which was a bit of a puzzle as, in theory, it should have been well sheltered from the SE swell.  Julie and Farley had never been to the Whitsunday Islands before so were keen to see Whitehaven beach.  Thus we plugged on down the next morning and initially picked up a buoy in Tongue Bay.  We took the dingy ashore and did the Hill Inlet walk and enjoyed the spectacular views from the lookouts over the Inlet and towards Whitehaven beach.  Then we walked down the other side on to the beach and enjoyed a walk along the wonderful white sand.  When we returned to the boat there was a fair bit of swell, as there often is here.  Those who read the blog regularly will have heard about some of our terrible nights in this bay!  We dropped the buoy and moved a little further down into the bay and anchored.  There was definitely less swell but during the night it got quite bad and we had an uncomfortable night.  However, if we were to see Whitehaven in the time available, we had no choice and we all agreed that it had been worthwhile.  Next day we made an early start (none of us were asleep anyway) and headed for Cateran Bay to snorkel.  We had a brisk sail up there and picked up a buoy.  We enjoyed the snorkelling but the water was 3-4 degrees colder that it had been a week or two earlier.  After lunch we made for Macona Inlet and, as we were considering anchoring, decided that there was too much swell so we headed back round into Nara.  Fortunately it was lovely and calm and we had a very peaceful night.  Next day we had a swift sail back to Airlie.  Julie hardly relinquished the helm for the entire time.  That suited all of us and Farley decided that he is a rope man and loved working the sheets and halyards.  He also turned out to be a fantastic wild life spotter and we had many whale sightings including a brief, but very close encounter as we approached Pioneer rocks on our return to Airlie.  We had dinner that evening in our favourite, Mr Bones and sadly said farewell to Julie and Farley next day.

Julie took the wheel as soon as we had raised our sails. 

She occasionally let Farley have a go.

About to do the Hill Inlet walk.

Things that go bump in the night

A strange thing happened today. We were awoken at 7.10 am by a loud bump. Our first thought was that something had hit us. We leapt out of bed, looked all around and could see nothing. There was very little wind, no marine traffic and we couldn't see anything untoward. Then someone shouted from the pontoon opposite "look up!"  This is what we saw:

Yes, the neighbour's mast had fallen on to ours! Yesterday a rigger had been working on the boat and had not finished the job but neither had he left things secure. Their mast had come to rest held up our forestay attachment. It has broken our wind instrument and scratched through the mast coating.  We were able to get in touch with the rigger who was able to quite quickly pull the mast upright again and fortunately our riggings were not tangled up. The owner was not on his boat but returned late morning and was somewhat alarmed everyone having told him about his mast falling down! 

I don't think we shall have any difficulty getting a new instrument paid for (they cost about $600). The rigger was very sheepish  and a bit shaken when he came and saw what had happened. We do need to contact our insurers and it is all a it tedious! John went up the mast later just to check that there was no major damage that we could not see from ground level. Our instruments are all working. We shall see what happens next! 

10 lovely days with friends from Melbourne

We were joined by Lisa and Bill for 10 days of excellent sailing. Lisa was new to sailing but Bill had raced dingies in his youth and sailed on something a little larger some years ago. The weather looked as if it might be a bit too windy but in the end we only had one day when we decided to stay put. The SE trades are blowing strong and consistently. We set off from Airlie on the day they arrived and beat down to Bauer Bay where we picked up a buoy at the deserted resort. We spent a peaceful night after a lovely sunset. Next morning it was another beat down to Shaw Island. We had decided to make our way down South so that we could then enjoy some down wind sailing with lots of stops while making our way North again. Also we knew that the forecast for day three was for 25-30 knot SE winds so we needed to be somewhere safe and sheltered. Not long after leaving Bauer we sighted our first whales, not very close but still exciting. By the time we reached Shaw it was blowing quite hard and we found a sheltered and calm sport for the night. Next morning, when the wind was blowing 25+ knots we planned to stay put but a nasty swell came in and we relocated further down the island nearer Burning Point. We spent the day at anchor reading, knitting and sewing. Next day it was Bill!s birthday and still quite windy but we decided to sail down to Thomas Island, one of my favourites. We had a good beat down with reefed sails but were well out of the wind and very comfortable once in the shelter of Thomas. Our original intention was just to have a swim, walk and lunch at Thomas and then return to Shaw for the night. However, it was so peaceful there that we stayed the night and took the risk of a swell coming in as it had done on previous occasions when anchored there. As we were having breakfast next morning we saw more whales. We set off for Whitehaven, down wind this time. The wind had moderated somewhat and we had a lovely sail. Bill and Lisa did all the sailing for the whole time while John and I just sat back and relaxed. I think that the only time one of us took the helm was when manoeuvring around buoys and anchors and entering and leaving the marina. What fantastic crew! We anchored off Whitehaven and Bill and Lisa went ashore while John and I swam from the boat. We then spent the night at Apostle Bay. It's the next bay up from Tongue and we had the bay to ourselves while Tongue had about 20 boats anchored. There are turtles everywhere. In the morning we had hoped to anchor off the northern end of Whitehaven off Hill inlet. However it was too shallow so we picked up a buoy in Tongue and went round the point in the dingy. We had a very wet ride!! We did the Hill Inlet walk while the tide was very low. We've never been there at that state of the tide and it looked very different but still very beautiful. Next morning we had a close encounter with a dugong as we left Tongue - very exciting. We made our way to Cateran Bay which we had to ourselves for a short time. Then others came and we had a bit of entertainment while a small motor boat made a complete hash of trying to anchor. The snorkelling was good although the water was definitely cooler than it was a couple of weeks ago. We went on in the afternoon to Macona Bay to anchor for the night.  The wind had dropped completely. It was a still, dark night with no moon and the stars were amazing. Just after dinner we were visited by a lone dolphin who swam around the boat. Next morning we sailed to Cid Harbour where we anchored and then went ashore in the dingy. We climbed Whitsunday Peak (434m). It's a steep climb for about 1 hour 20 minutes up but you are rewarded by a superb 360 degree view from the top. Next day we made our way back to Airlie beach. We started with a good breeze but it soon died away and we ended up motoring the last bit. We saw more whales. It's one of the best whale seasons ever. We had dinner ashore courtesy of Lisa and Bill and then very sadly said farewell to them next day. Hopefully they will be back to sail with us again at another time! 

Leaving Airlie beach. Lisa and Bill put to work straight away! 

Our first whale sighting.

Hill Inlet at low water.

Visited by a dolphin at night.

View from Whitsunday Peak.