The second half of Gabrielle's week and an amazing dolphin feeding experience.

We did sail round to Macona - very quickly in a stiff breeze. Next day we had a lovely sail across to Cateran Bay, picked up a buoy and had a wonderful snorkel. The highlight of the snorkel was a huge shoal of hardy heads. They are a small fish about 15-18 cm long and were quite an amazing sight. The water was 26 degrees and the coral beautiful. The sail back to Macona was also great and Gabrielle is a natural helmsperson. We anchored once again in Macona and it was one of the warmest nights so far - a beautiful balmy evening. After dinner there was suddenly a lot of fish activity in the water. It was like our night at Keswick Island with hundreds of small gar fish swimming around and frequently jumping out of the water. However, on this occasion about 3-4 bottlenose dolphins appeared and had a wonderful feast of them. The dolphins came right up to the boat so we could easily have touched them. What a sight it was! None of us wanted to take our eyes off the action so we didn't go and fetch a camera. It lasted for quite some time. Much as I dislike the expression, it really was an OMG occasion! Next day there was very little wind so we mainly motored up the Eastern side of Hook island and anchored for lunch in Maureen's Cove. It looked very pretty and initially there were no other boats but the snorkelling was a bit disappointing. There was not nearly as much coral nor as many fish as in Butterfly bay, the next bay along. As we had been to Butterfly the week before with Lawrence, we thought we'd try a new one. However the water was 28 degrees and very clear so it was not all bad!  Just as we had started cooking our damper for lunch in the solar oven, the clouds rolled in and we had to finish them on the stove. We motored back after lunch to Airlie Beach by which time there were a few storm clouds around. It was good to have showers and we enjoyed a lovely meal ashore.  We were sad to say good bye to Gabrielle this morning. She was truly both a great sailor and sailing companion. 

A natural helmsperson.

Part of the shoal of hardy heads. 

Coral in Cateran Bay.

Rounding the top of Hook Island.

Coral in Maureen's Cove.

Storm clouds gathering.

First half of Gabrielle's week

We met our next crew member, Gabrielle, a 4th year medical student and good friend of our neighbours, at mid-day. She has a little sailing experience and expressed a desire to come.  So, having just completed her major 4th year exams, it seemed like the perfect way to wind down.  After a quick introduction to Essex Girl we went round to the fuel dock, topped up the diesel and then headed out under sail in a light breeze, not quite sure of our final destination for that day. The wind deserted us as we rounded the top of North Molle Island so, as it was quite late, rather than head for Cid Harbour, we turned South and picked up a buoy at Bauer Bay on the northern side of South Molle. According to our pilot guide there is a resort here and one has to pay for the use of their buoys so we tried phoning but got no answer. There were three other boats on buoys and one at anchor. As were neared the bay it became quite obvious that the resort was deserted and that none of the boats on buoys had anyone aboard so we just picked up one of the empty buoys for the night. It's a pretty little bay and the weather was very calm so we had a peaceful night. Next day, after our swim and with very little wind, we mainly motored in lovey sunshine down towards Shaw Island for the night.   On the way we stopped for lunch at Seaforth Island where there is a very pretty sandy beach and a small bay. We blew up the dingy and rowed ashore and walked along the beach. Then had a swim from the boat. On arrival at Shaw we swam, had a glorious sunset and a peaceful night. There was still not much wind in the morning and we motored against a 3 knot tide through the passage between Shaw and Lindeman. Eventually as we passed Pentecost Island we were able to unfurl the jib and start sailing. I hardly recognised Pentecost, as it is usually a very obvious land mark. But on that day its tall peak had its own little orographic cloud on top. We sailed on up to Solway passage at the southern end of Whitsunday Island, motored through the passage and, as you come through, the famous Whitehaven beach opens up in front of you. For once all the tides were with us! Gabrielle had never seen Whitehaven before and it lived up to all her expectations. We anchored off and rowed ashore. The beautiful white sand is quite different to anything I have encountered on any beach I have ever been on. We had lunch before hauling up the anchor. A light 7 knot Southerly breeze had come up so we got the spinnaker out and had a peaceful, leisurely sail, gybing a couple of times, past Esk Island to the entrance to Tongue bay. Since our last time here a couple of years ago they have added a lot more buoys so we picked one up. Actually, we picked three up! The first one appeared to be the best one left but then a boat moved from what appeared to be a better one.  However a yacht was anchored much too close to the mooring and they were playing loud music so we moved to yet another!  There were heaps of turtles around and then we spotted dugongs and we rowed over to get a closer look. Even if one does not get really close, it is still a very magical experience.  We had a bad night as the light wind and the tide fought each other for determining the boat's direction and the buoy kept bumping the hull as the boat meandered around. Next morning we put the outboard onto the dingy and went to the beach from where there is the start of the Hill Inlet walk. It was half tide as we walked up to the look out. Once again it more than lived up to Gabrielle's expectation and John and I never tire of the beauty. In the lagoon there were lots of little baby sharks. We think that they may be Tawny sharks. Then back to the boat. A nice breeze had developed and we sailed off the buoy and had a good beat with two long tacks up to the passage between Hook and Whitsunday Islands. It was a lovely sail in 10-15 knots and Gabrielle at the helm, taking to it like a natural. The forecast was for 20-25 knot southerly winds for Saturday so we headed round into Cid Harbour. This is where we are now. Right on schedule at about 5am the wind got up and it is blowing hard. The forecast is for the wind to ease this afternoon so I think that we shall do the short sail round to Macona just for a change of scene and to position us a little nearer to tomorrow's destination, Cateran Bay. We had hoped that we might get ashore to climb Whitsunday peak while here, but the water is very choppy and would be a real test for our little outboard. 

This is a bit unfair - we actually took it in turns!

Seaforth lunch stop

Whitehaven beach

Tawny shark

Back to the boat in Tongue Bay.

Sunset in Tongue Bay

Anchoring at sunset in Cid Harbour

First of the season, cruising the islands.

 We were joined by Lawrence, the son of a good friend and a wonderful sailing companion for the next few days. Lawrence has a little sailing experience and holds a pilot's licence so has a very good understanding of the principles of sailing and of navigation. He's also strong and fit and very easy to have aboard. Unfortunately because of the change in the weather, his first two days we were marina bound. However the next day we set off in a good wind and sailed across to Nara inlet, a favourite first night destination from Airlie. In the morning we had a lovely pre breakfast swim. The water is 27 degrees, a very pleasant temperature. We then sailed in sunshine to Cateran Bay on Border Island. We picked up a mooring and had the whole bay to ourselves. We snorkelled over good coral with a wonderful variety of fish. After lunch, we sailed back to Macona inlet for the night. Next day, when we came to weigh anchor, we found that we had a problem with the instruments which we diagnosed as a loose connection somewhere. We did get intermittent depth but no wind speed and direction and the chart plotter did not work. Fortunately we have plenty of back ups and, if we were really pressed, could go back to using a paper chart and dead reckoning.  I do miss the depth though in these narrow passages with coral everywhere.  We went round the eastern side of Hook island, round the top and picked up a mooring in Butterfly Bay for lunch and more good snorkelling. By the time we left the wind had all but disappeared.  We made our way through the the very beautiful passage between Hayman and Hook islands, north of Black and Langford islands and across to Woodwark bay. The sky became more and more grey and eventually we had some short lived but heavy rain but this had cleared by the time we dropped anchor. We had a beautiful sunset in a very peaceful bay. Sadly at about midnight a swell developed and this got larger and larger so that none of us was able to sleep. By about 1 am things looked quite unsettled and we decided to haul up the anchor and set off back to Airlie. It did give Lawrence a taste of night sailing and his keen eyes were very useful as we made our way through the anchored yachts just outside the marina. By 4 am we were safely in our berth and how glad we were that we made the decision. It started raining between 6 and 7 am and it has barely stopped all day but the main thing was the wind. For about 4 hours this morning it roared and was well over 40 knots at times. We couldn't measure it accurately as our instruments are not working.  We slept in and then enjoyed a bacon and egg breakfast before finally venturing to the shower, launderette and the coffee shop. Lawrence left us at that point and we were sorry to see him go. Tomorrow we must get the instruments fixed before ours next crew member joins us. 

Lawrence taking the helm as we left Airlie Beach and looking as if he'd been doing it all his life.

Cateran Bay to ourselves.

Before the storm.

Safely anchored.

The final leg - Yeppoon to Airlie Beach

We finally left Yeppoon as the sun came up on Monday. It was a day of varying wind strengths with periods of good sailing interspersed with periods of motoring. As usual, we had anything from 1 - 2.5 knots of tide against us. It's a real puzzle not mention frustration that it's always against us. However it is an amazingly beautiful coastline, the sun was shining and the sea getting warmer. We were all still rugged up as the air temperature plus wind chill, when there was  any wind, made it a bit chilly. The early morning was particularly cold. We saw some distant dolphins en route. We arrived at our destination, Pearl Bay at about 4.30 pm in time for Captain's hour as the sun went down.  We were welcomed by a turtle swimming around.  It's a very pretty anchorage quite well sheltered but the pilot did warn of possible swells. It was good to be at anchor again and not in a marina. Around midnight as the tide changed, the swell rolled in and it became rather too rolly for complete comfort but it gradually settled down again and half the crew slept through it and did not feel a thing. We were off once again as the sun came up. We had a cup of tea as we hauled up the anchor then breakfast under way.  It started out with a decent 8-10knt breeze but gradually it deserted us and eventually we motored from mid afternoon until arrival at Mackay at about 6am just as the sun came up. We had decided to sail through the night to cover as much distance as possible giving us more time to enjoy the islands.  It was a mild, clear star filled night. Jonathan saw his best ever shooting star which lasted a few seconds and left a trail behind. We put into Mackay to refuel. Off Mackay there is a huge parking lot for bulk carriers waiting to load coal at the Hay Point facility. It's quite interesting making ones way through and around these massive things. It's probably easier to do it in the dark as they are so well lit. None of them was moving which also makes it easier. Just on dawn, 24 hours after leaving Pearl Bay, we arrived in Mackay. This was only a fuel stop but we had to wait until 8.30 for the fuel pumps to open. We filled up with water, had our first internet connection since leaving Yeppoon, bought a coffee and fuel and then we were on our way again by 9.30.   Once again the wind was on again, off again and we did a fair bit of motoring. We had decided to do quite a short hop to Keswick Island, about 30 nm. We motored up between Keswick and St Bees Islands - what a pretty little passage. Wonderful turquoise waters, steep wooded hillsides, a picture perfect sight. There were turtles around as we anchored and then, after dark there were masses of gar fish charging around, breaking the surface so that it sounded almost as if it were raining.  When we shone a torch it only encouraged the activity. It was a peaceful night and we all slept well. Then up bright and early and a much enjoyed swim in 27 degrees, a quick cup of tea and off with breakfast under way. There was no wind and there was none all day. We think that it is the first time that we have motored all day with no sailing at all. It's a pity but it was a very lovely journey to Lindeman Island where we anchored for the night. We went close to a number of islands, Carlisle, Tinsmith, between Goldsmith and Linne, a look at Thomas and Young Tom's Islands, a look at, with a view to a night's anchorage, at Bill Bob Bay on the South side of Shaw Island before deciding to go on to Plantation Bay on the south of Lindeman Island where we dropped the anchor. There was absolutely no wind at all and we had a flat peaceful night. Again we had a pre breakfast swim then set off for the final leg to Airlie Beach and Abell Point marina where we have a berth booked until the end of October. We motored all day, close to the islands. We unfurled the jib for about 10 minutes just off the marina, then the wind deserted us again. We went to our favourite restaurant, Mr Bones, for dinner. Saturday we went to the markets (nothing very original or exciting), walked around the shops, did a couple of loads of washing and some of the many boat jobs that seem to be never ending, then enjoyed our last Captain's hour with Jonathan and Wendy. We had dinner at another favourite restaurant, La Tabella. And so, this morning we said a very sad farewell to Wendy and Jonathan. They are really good friends, fantastic sailing mates and we shall miss them enormously. 

Sunrise leaving Pearl Bay

The passage between St Bees and Keswick Island

Lunch under way with fresh rolls cooked by John in the solar oven. 

Not a breath of wind. 

Coffs Harbour

We were very grateful that we had left Coffs Harbour when we did. Six days after leaving an amazing East coast low passed down the NSW coast and Coffs Harbour marina was all but destroyed. Our friends Cookie and Colin Sibly were sadly still there when it happened and they had the most terrifying of nights. They were moored on the same pontoon as we had been but a little further down. The finger to which they were attached broke free, flipped over and started to pound then like a barnacle covered battering ram. Miraculously, they saved their boat and were eventually towed to the fuel dock. The part of the pontoon where we had been, detached and sank and the whole walkway, including the marina office, was washed away. So, those lovely photos of the marina that I posted, taken on a bright sunny day, would look very different now. We feel very sorry for all those caught up in the storm. There are many people who live aboard their yachts in the marina and one usually assumes that one would be safe in such an apparently sheltered place. Several times now we have sheltered at Coffs and wonder just what will happen while they, hopefully, rebuild. Our thoughts are with all those who have been severely affected and with the lovely woman, Elise, and her staff who run the marina. 

Up to Yeppoon

We've arrived in Yeppoon! It was quite a journey from Mooloolaba. We set off motoring in a very light wind but before too long we hoisted sails and turned off the motor. It didn't go on again until arriving here at the marina yesterday evening. We had four more nights at sea. At dusk on day one we were just south of Yamba and by the following night we were passing the entrance to Great Sandy Straight, the passage between Fraser Island and the mainland. It is very shallow in places and our draft is just about the limit for passing through. In order to go through the passage one has to first cross the Wide Bay bar across the entrance and then make sure that you are on a rising tide. We have always been round the outside before but we did consider going inside of Fraser Island as the weather appeared to be quite settled and there were neap  tides. However the tide times just were not right. We would have had to go through in the dark which would have defeated the purpose. So, once again, we found ourselves sailing up the outside at night. It's an awful long way! We met a number of prawn trawlers around the passage entrance one of which came a bit closer to us than we would have liked. They manoeuvre in a fairly unpredictable way.  By dawn we were off Waddy Point which is a little more than three quarters of the way up the island. By this time it was overcast, showery and the wind was building. We had 2 knots of current against us. Once at the top of the visible part of Fraser Island (the largest sand island in the world), there is another 23 or so nm of under water sand bank until one reaches a North cardinal marker round which you sail. We spotted it in the afternoon when it was very grey and dismal. The wind was SE which was going to be directly behind us once we rounded the marker. It's much nicer when it's a bit to one side. The third night was a long hard one as was most of the next day. The wind was just over 20knts for much of the time with rain squalls and steering was a good work out. However we made good progress and arrived in Yeppoon just on sunset. We are in Kepple Bay Marina which is large and has plenty of empty spaces. Once safely tied up we had a G and T then a glorious shower, tidied ourselves up a bit and headed to the restaurant. It is just the most wonderful feeling after 5 days at sea. We all slept well last night! We have spent the day here doing laundry - two big loads - and borrowed the courtesy car to do a bit of shopping. Jonathan ministered to a woman who had collapsed in the disabled toilet, a boat has been towed in that was taking on water and we have had some heavy rain so all in all it has been a good day not to be at sea. South of us all down the NSW coast there are strong wind warnings but hopefully they should not affect us too much. We shall be here another day anyway as it is forecast to rain some more but by Sunday it should be a bit brighter. 

Stormy skies

Arriving at Yappoon