Kirby's second week

 We went to Stonehaven on the Western side of Hook Island next day. Here we picked up a buoy and spent the morning snorkelling round the fringing reef. We spent the night there and it blew hard all night. Next stop was Blue Pearl Bay on the western side of Hayman Island. This is reputed to be one of the best snorkelling and diving spots in the Whitsundays and there was certainly some excellent coral and lots of fish. After lunch we went on round the top of Hayman, mainly because we have not done that before. We then beat down to the top of Hook. There are several bays here where we have often stopped for lunch and a snorkel but have never stayed the night as it is said to be swelly. We chose Luncheon Bay and picked up a buoy. We needed to stay here as the plan was to make a very early start next day for the outer reef. We had a horrendous night with swell, very little wind and the buoy banging against the hull all night! We had chosen Thursday for the reef trip as there had been too much wind on all the other days and Thursday's forecast looked OK. However, it meant that we would not be able to stay overnight at the reef as we have to be back in Airlie on Friday, hence the early start. We were all relieved to get started at 4am. By the time we had got organised and dropped the buoy it was just beginning to get light and there was a lovely sunrise.  It's 17 nm to the reef and it took about 3.5 hours on a broad reach. It was quite an amazing sight to come across the reef in the middle of the deep blue ocean. We wove our way in through the coral bommies and picked up a buoy at Bait Reef.  It was quite hair raising - thank goodness for chart plotters! However, they only give a rough outline where the bommies are so one has to keep a very careful look out. We spent the morning snorkelling in the clear blue waters and the coral and fish were superb. In spite of the water being 28 degrees, one gets quite cold after only 30-40 minutes. Dropping the buoy was also a little anxiety provoking as well as there was very little room to drop back having dropped the buoy rope. However, all was well and we set off back towards Hook in about 15 kn, again on a broad reach though we were gradually headed as the afternoon progressed.  We were safely anchored in the still, sheltered waters of Macona Inlet by captain's hour after an adventurous and wonderful day. It was our last night before returning to Airlie for a final dinner with Kirby. We were able to hoist the spinnaker making the sail back fast and very enjoyable. Once back in the marina we borrowed a car for a couple of hours and rushed round the shops to restock for the return journey. 

Sunset at Stonehaven.

Not sure if it's a parrot fish?  Blue Pearl Bay

Setting off for the outer reef at first light.

Leaving the outer reef.

Spinnaker run home!

Kirby's first few days.

Kirby eventually arrived about five hours late due to the late arrival of her plane. She had left home at three o'clock that morning so she had had a very tiring and frustrating day. Once she arrived we set sail, leaving the marina at about 5.30pm and headed for Cid. For both Lea and Kirby it was their first experience of night sailing and therefore of having to steer a compass course instead of doing things visually. It was only a day after full moon so we weren't in the dark for too long before the large moon came up. In the morning we headed in very light winds down to Lindeman Island. When we had called two weeks ago for Rosie to look at the trapeze rig, Lea had dropped an SD card and we stopped there to pick it up. Sadly the caretaker wasn't there so we may have to call again. We then went just round the west side of Seaforth Island where we anchored for lunch and a swim.  It does not have a name but we christened it "Lea's Bay", then on to Shaw for the night.  We anchored in Bill Bob Bay on the southern side as the winds were easterly. Suzie and Kirby dangled lines in the water and had a few nibbles before first Suzie lost her whole hook and immediately Kirby lost hers, presumably to the same largish fish who would now have a rather sore mouth with two hooks in it! Next day we continued south arriving at Brampton Island after a lovely sail down, for a late lunch. We had one of those horrible rolly nights when none of us got much sleep and everything that could rattle and bang did so. We motored round to the northern Brampton anchorage next morning so that we could row ashore and climb up to the peak to admire the views. It was a three hour round trip and quite strenuous in the heat. The walk, fortunately, was mostly shady but, of course, we are not used to using our legs! It was very good for us. After a swim and lunch we headed in a pleasant wind up to Goldsmith Island for the night.  We anchored in Roylan Bay with three other boats.  We all prayed for no swell and were rewarded with a much better but not perfectly calm night. In the morning we headed north again and anchored on the northern side of Shaw. The next day we left for Cid harbour. We had a SE wind about 5-10 knots so were able to raise the spinnaker. It's always fun and, since getting the new torsion line on it, furling has become much easier. The next day we all went ashore in the dingy and Suzie, Lea and Kirby all walked up to the peak while John and I, who have done that walk before, walked to Dugong Bay. This walk is only an hour return through lovely rainforest while the peak walk is 2.5 hours and rather more strenuous but one is rewarded with magnificent 360 degree views from the top. John and I met a lovely couple from Lemontree Passage which is further up Port Stephens where we keep our boat. We look forward to catching up with them again either on our way down south or once we return home. After our walks and a swim we went to Frittata Bay which is just a short distance away. However, a swell was developing and we decided to move on to Macona. As we were about to move, it started to rain and by the time we were off Macona it was pouring and the visibility was very poor. It looked as if the swell might also be rolling into Macona as well so we went on to Nara just next door. It was a good decision and we had a nice quiet night. We were very grateful for the roll down sides that we have on our bimini and were very snug and dry in the cockpit with them down. We had intended to go snorkelling in Cateran Bay next day but we then realised that we were low on diesel so motored down to Hamilton Island to refuel. It was also a chance to dispose of our rubbish and buy a few more fresh vegetables. We sailed back and anchored north of May's Bay but south of Frittata, on the western side of Whitsunday island. This is another place that has no name so we named it Indulgence Bay. This was because Suzie had caught a wonderful spotted mackerel which was delicious eating. 

Putting Kirby to work.

Our navigators.

View from Brampton Peak.

Time to relax when you have willing crew!

Suzie and her delicious spotted mackerel.

A short trip with Tanya

We don't have much time between trips so, the day after the Mr Bones day out we were joined by Tanya who is a mental health nurse on Palm Island. She holds a day skipper qualification so was a very useful crew member. On her first day we sailed 42 nm down to Shaw island, close hauled all the way in about 15 knots. We had been held up at the start of the day as our wind generator was returned after having a repair, so it was just on dark when we arrived. Next day we beat down to Thomas Island to have a more leisurely day. Suzie is a keen fisher person.  The day before we had spent a very worthwhile and amusing time in a local fishing shop. The owner was very kind and patient and thoroughly entertaining as he explained various fishing techniques and gave Suzie a lesson and sold a lure on which she was sure to catch something. There were lots of fish jumping round the end of Shaw and Suzie had her line out. We had great excitement as she caught a large frigate mackerel, a member of the tuna family. Sadly, although we did have two meals from it, we all agreed that it wasn't the best tasting fish. The rest will be used for bait. When we arrived at Thomas we had the anchorage to ourselves for most of the day and enjoyed swimming and snorkelling and mid-afternoon had a brisk sail back to the northern end of Shaw. Next day in a 15-20 knot wind and one reef in the main and a slightly reefed jib, we headed north again, through the Solway passage and anchored at Whitehaven beach for lunch. It was very blustery with a choppy sea and strong gusts of wind. This didn't stop us swimming and later we continued on to Macona Inlet. The night was very windy but next day we decided to sail across to Cateran Bay on Border Island. We put two reefs in the main and had a beat across in very lumpy seas and winds of 20-25 knots. However, of course there was no one else in Cataran Bay so we picked up our usual buoy and snorkelled. The water had been stirred up a bit by the wind so the visibility wasn't great but the water was warm and it was enjoyable. The Bay was quite calm but strong bullets occurred at frequent intervals. The sail back was down wind and very fast. We considered staying in Nara Inlet for the night but there were a lot of other boats there (most of whom we suspect had been there all day sheltering from the wind) so we turned back and went into Macona again. There was a fair bit of swell which made the first half of the night somewhat uncomfortable but after midnight it settled down and the wind started to moderate. After morning swims we set sail again for Airlie Beach, shook out the reefs and had a lovely reach back in about 15 knots and we're all very sad when we had to take the sails down and enter the marina. So now we are back. We've restocked the boat for our next trip starting tomorrow, we've had showers and a good meal ashore and sadly we have said goodbye to Tanya. Tomorrow we shall do the washing and meet our new crew member, Kirby. 

Suzie and her fish.

Lea going for a snorkell.

Tanya in her element at the helm.

Mr Bones day out

MOur favourite eatery in Airlie Beach, as regular readers will know, is Mr Bones. It is owned by Mark who employs the most delightful, mainly English, backpackers here on working holiday visas. On Monday we had a Mr Bones sailing day.  We set off from Airlie with Mark, his son, Noah, Cat, whose birthday it was and her partner, Andy. There was lovely sunshine but very little wind so we mainly motored to Palm Bay on Long Island where we picked up Jake and his parents, Lisa and Ian. Jake and his family are from Newcastle, England and it was Lisa and Ian's last day in Australia. We motored to Sandy Bay on South Mole where we anchored for lunch and a swim. The water was crystal clear and warm and we had a lovely leisurely lunch and swim before sailing in a very gentle breeze back to Airlie. Ian and Suzie tried fishing on the way back but, sadly, caught nothing. Lisa and Ian both agreed that it was a perfect way to end their Australian holiday. 

  

John, Mark and Noah pick up Jake at Palm Bay.

Lunch at Sandy Bay.

Returning to Airlie Beach.

Two lovely daughters and a lovely German friend on her gap year

The weather forecast for the next week did not look too promising.  We set off in a northerly from Airlie early afternoon after meeting daughters, Suzie and Rosie, and Lea from Germany, who all arrived from Newcastle in the morning. We anchored in Cid Harbour and had a horrible night as a large swell developed. It was not a good start for the girls and none of us slept well. It was also unusual to be so uncomfortable in Cid. Next day was grey and cloudy and we sailed south to Lindeman. Rosie had been in contact with the caretaker there as the report used to be owned by Club Med and, at that time they had a flying trapeze rig which is now in pieces sitting idle. We anchored off the old resort and the girls rowed ashore to go and look at the rig. Rosie took a lot of photos and will circulate them among her circus friends to see if it can be of use to any of them. We were undecided where to spend the night as the wind was forecast to go from a light northerly to a stronger southerly during the night. We decided to go across to Shaw Island and to be prepared for the southerly even if it were a bit windy for the first half of the night. It was a good decision as we were very comfortable and did not have to make a very early start next morning to get ourselves off a lee shore. In the morning there was a brisk southerly blowing and we had a fast and somewhat bumpy sail up to the Solway passage. As soon as we entered the passage the sea calmed down. It was very overcast so Lea's first sighting of Whitehaven beach was not very spectacular. However once we had anchored off the beach, the sun came out and the water turned its usual turquoise. We swam, rowed to the beach, walked along the beach and had lunch during a leisurely afternoon and then sailed the short distance up to Tongue Bay. We were a little worried about swell arising during the night but all was well. We have learned not to pick up a buoy there, even if one is a free. We anchor as far down as possible, well away from the other yachts. That evening we had our best ever dugong experience. Just before sunset we saw several dugongs not very far from the boat; but then a mother and calf swam right up to the boat. They were very close to each other with the calf being very well protected by its mother. It was wonderful to watch. In the morning we put the outboard onto the dingy and went to the other side of the bay to do the Hill Inlet lookout walk. The sun was out and it was as magnificent as ever. Regular blog readers will know that we have done this walk many, many times but it never ceases to amaze and delight me. Every time we go we see something different; the tide is at a different height, the sun is in a different position, the clouds are different etc. And so, after another stunning morning climbing to the lookout and walking in the dazzling white sand, we upped anchor and made for Frittata bay for the night. The forecast was for quite strong southeasterlies the next day but we decided to head for Cateran Bay any way and to come back if the wind were too strong. We had a fast sail across, picked up our usual buoy and had the bay to ourselves until mid-afternoon. We were quite well sheltered but there were a few strong bullets (wind gusts known as catabatic winds) but it did not detract from the snorkelling. From there we returned to Nara Inlet for the night. There were quite a few boats there who had obviously decided not to venture out that day. Next day we decided to have a lazy day and took the dingy up to the top of the inlet and walked up to a cave with aboriginal paintings. It's an interesting site where you can listen to recordings of Aboriginal people talking about their land, their attachment to it and of their parents and grandparents' memories of their lives and traditions. In the afternoon we motored round to Macona Inlet just next door for a change in scene. Here we had a motor round in the dingy and admired the wonderful rock formations along the side of the inlet. Next day we sailed out of Macona and round the top of Hook Island. We picked up a buoy in Butterfly Bay having arrived just as someone else was leaving. There were only a fraction the number of boats there than there had been a couple of weeks ago. The snorkelling was great and we cooked scones in the solar oven before sailing off and heading for Airlie Beach. We arrived just as the sun was setting and in time to have a quick shower before heading off the Mr Bones for a farewell dinner for Rosie. We were all very sad to say goodbye to her next morning. 

Rosie at Hill Inlet.

Aboriginal cave paintings at Nara Inlet.

Rock formations at Nara Inlet

Meike and Stefan's visit.

After all our very mixed weather, the wind has now gone round to the north and the sun is shining. We are forecast to have northerlies for the next few days so, having been joined by friends Mieke and Stefan, we planned to sail down to some of the more southerly islands. The first day they did not arrive until mid afternoon and, in almost no wind, we motored across to Cid Harbour where we arrived after dark. The next three weeks up here are the busiest of the year. It is Queensland followed by NSW school holidays. Next day there was also no wind but we motored south under slightly cloudy skies to the south side of Thomas Island. There are two anchorages marked here. In one there were about half a dozen boats while there were none in the other. We had the second anchorage to ourselves. We swam and enjoyed the quiet, peaceful beauty. We had breeze on and off the next day and continued our way south. We must have been sailing on whale highway - we kept seeing whales in every direction. None was very close but they were all over the place. It is coming towards the end of the season. Most of the whales have had their calves and have already headed south back to the Antarctic waters for the summer.  We spent the night in Western Bay on the west side of Brampton Island. There was only one other boat in the large bay. The tides are larger here - about a 4m range - and there is a wide fringing reef that dries at low water. Mieke and Stefan rowed ashore at high water and then snorkelled round. The coral is not spectacular but they found many fish. In the morning we motored round to the anchorage on the northern side of the island. There was a resort here but it closed down six years ago. It is in a very beautiful spot and it's a shame that the buildings are so neglected. There is a caretaker who is paid $4000 a month. His job is purely to keep people off the resort premises, not to do any maintenance. He tells us that there are plans to build an expensive eco resort for about 20 guests but nothing has happened yet. We had only planned to stay here for the morning while walking some of the trails on Brampton. However it was so lovely and there was no wind that we decided to stay the night. Stefan caught us a large Trevally for dinner. Some of the reef fish contain ciguatera so one is warned not to eat anything over 4kg in weight nor to have a second meal off any fish. This was quite a large fish with plenty for two meals but we played it safe and had one delicious meal and the rest has been used as bait. Finally next day we had some wind. After the usual morning swim we tore ourselves away from this lovely anchorage and set off north again in a predominantly easterly breeze of 10-12 knots. It was a glorious sail. We sailed up between Linne and Goldsmith islands then anchored at Roylan Bay on Goldsmith for lunch.  We made damper and swam while it cooked in the solar oven. After lunch we sailed on to Shaw Island. Stefan caught a number of fish but we put them back as none was very large. We sailed north next day in a good wind. We sailed through the Solway passage and anchored off Whitehaven beach for a swim and lunch. Then on to Tongue for the night. To our surprise there were not that many boats in there or we would have gone on to Apostle Bay. The tide was high at about 8am next day so we made an early start and with no breakfast rowed ashore to do the Hill Inlet walk. It was as beautiful as ever and we enjoyed walking along the cool, white sand. After this we went back south again. We looked at stopping at one of the bay's on the south side of Whitsunday island. There were quite a few boats anchored in all of them so, after sticking our nose in, we decided to keep heading south. We anchored in Plantation bay on the south side of Lindeman Island for the night. With the northerlies continuing, the next day we sailed over the north end of Shaw Island and looked at the bays on the east side of Shaw, none of which we had been into before. The first, Queen Margrethe Bay, we thought would be the least likely to be occupied but surprisingly there were quite a few boats there. The second, Roberta Bay, only had a couple but the third was empty so we had the Bay to ourselves all night. In the morning we headed north starting with very little wind but gradually strengthening to 12 knots. We skirted the top of Haslewood Island and investigated Chalkies beach for a lunch stop. However we preferred Windy Bay where we anchored, swam and ate lunch. Then on to Frittata Bay for the night. This is on the west side of Whitsunday Island. If you go through the Hook channel from the East and then turn left it's just down that western side. It's not listed in the book as an anchorage but we used it a couple of weeks ago and found it to be well sheltered. We named it Frittata Bay as we had just eaten frittata for dinner! We had a good spinnaker run that afternoon until it got a bit tangled as we gybed it so we had dropped it without it being furled. It was too windy to do anything about it that evening so we left it until morning when there was no wind. It took but a few minutes to hoist and refurl it then we went straight off to Cateran Bay for some snorkelling. We picked up our usual buoy but very soon quite a few more yachts and motor boats joined us. We had a lovely morning there swimming and snorkelling, before heading  back to Frittata for another night. Next day we circumnavigated Hook stopping at Butterfly Bay for lunch and a snorkel. It was a lovely day with good sailing and warm sunshine. We spent the night in Macona before heading back to Airlie Beach next day. In the evening we feasted on coral trout which happened to be the fish of the day at a local restaurant kindly hosted by Stefan and Meike who left us next day. 

The passage between Brampton and Carlisle Islands.

Stefan and his delicious trevally. 

Sunrise at Hill Inlet. 

Snorkelling at Butterfly Bay.