A week of amazing whale sightings but still no good photos!

Another quick turnaround (laundry, supermarket, cleaning, water tanks etc) after David and Lucy left and we welcomed Sharon. Those who read the blog last year will know that Sharon sailed with us for a couple of weeks in New Caledonia. The weather forecast was certainly better for the coming week than it had been for the previous one but the forecast did keep changing. We set off to Cid in a SE wind of a good strength ?15-20 knots - we still don't have a working wind instrument, since the incident with the neighbour's mast - and made it almost there on one tack before a wind shift forced a few tacks. Next day we made an early start to make the most of the south flowing flood tide to take us down the Hunt Channel and Fitzalan and Dent Passages, past Hamilton Island,  against the wind. Once through we turned the engine off and made for Thomas Island. It was grey and overcast with a strengthening head wind. However we made good time and anchored at Thomas Island with a bit of sunshine for a swim and lunch. In the afternoon we reached back to Shaw to anchor for the night. It was a good day's sailing in which we covered 37 nm. Next day we sailed very close to a mother and calf who appeared to be sleeping just off the North tip of Shaw Island. They just lay there lifting a pectoral fin to show its white underside and blowing off occasionally and not taking any notice of us. We sailed on round the western side of Workington Island and round the northern side of Hasle Wood to anchor in Windy Bay for a swim and lunch. Then we sailed on to Macona for the night. The forecast had changed. It had been for SE 15-25 knots for the whole week. That was why we had sailed south initially and thought that we would enjoy the rest of the week going back north with the wind. However it was now saying that there would be northerlies so our plans changed. The next day we went from Macona to Cateran Bay for lunch and a snorkel and then back to Nara for the night. We sighted some whales quite close by on the way but, while we were moored in Cateran we spotted a mother and calf and a third whale just off the north east point of Border Island, quite close to us, and they put on a fantastic show. The calf shot out clear of the water and one of the adult whales breached and they played around for some time before swimming off round the eastern side of the island. Because of the change in wind direction, we changed our plan to sail north and circumnavigate Hook Island, stopping to snorkel and perhaps stay the night at Butterfly Bay. Instead we headed for Tongue Inlet and anchored there. It was quite windy and the water choppy but Sharon and I rowed ashore and climbed up to the Hill Inlet lookout and down to the beach below. As Sharon was rowing back, two separate people came up to us in their dinghies with outboard motors to offer us a tow. It's very kind of them but  we declined both saying that we enjoyed rowing and that it is good exercise. They obviously thought that we were two crazy women. We were expecting our usual disturbed night in Tongue but were pleasantly surprised that the swell died down and we all slept well. Next day it was grey and cloudy and we sailed through the Solway Passage and, as we came round to the south side of Whitsunday Island we were greeted by the division one racing boats (it was Hamilton race week) just finishing their morning race. Modern racers all have either black or grey sails so, on a very grey day, it all looked extremely gloomy! We sailed on to anchor in Cid Harbour for the night. Next day a breezy sail brought us back to Airlie Beach to drop Sharon off. During the week we had many whale sightings, some of which were close up but none of which did we capture adequately on camera  - amazing none the less.

Back in Airlie, Sharon treated us to a lovely tapas lunch before we said goodbye to her. John and I went to Mr Bones for dinner and then left next day to fly home for 10 days. During this time we are going to Adelaide for two nights, where we are catching up with many friends and then on to Port Lincoln for two nights to attend Jonathan and Wendy's 121st birthday party. It's cold for us here in Newcastle and I'm not sure how we are going to survive Port Lincoln! We are very spoiled spending our winters in the tropics. The blog will continue on our return to Airlie. 

Pentecost Island on our way south.

Sleeping whales at the north of Shaw Island.

About to anchor in Nara.

A not very good selfie - I'll have to get a selfie stick!

Leaving the boat with David and Lucy

We had a very quick turnaround and David and Lucy flew in a few hours after Julie and Farley departed. David and Lucy had hired diving equipment which we loaded on to the boat and then we had a quick dash to the local fishing shop to get some appropriate fishing equipment plus some local advice on what and how we might catch. We set off in a good wind. The rods went out immediately and we caught a large blue fin tuna just off the point of North Mole. We enjoyed sashimi at captain's hour, beautiful pan fried fillets for dinner and delicious civiche for lunch next day. The only problem with catching fish is that it makes a terrible mess and they need so much preparation. However, it is well worth the effort. We anchored for a peaceful night in Macona and then left early to sail to Cateran Bay on Boarder Island. Here David and Lucy had their first and, I think, their only dive as the weather deteriorated from then. However that day it was lovely, though the water was a little chilly so we couldn't stay in for too long. After lunch we sailed round to Cid harbour for the night. There was a beautiful double rainbow as we anchored. Sadly one doesn't get rainbows without rain and sure enough the rain came. We were very grateful for the roll-down sides on the new bimini and we were able to sit in the cockpit and remain dry. In the morning it was grey, wet and windy. As the wind was dead against us we motored down to Hamilton where we were leaving Essex Girl to David and Lucy and they were meeting up with a group of friends who were chartering a catamaran for a week. Sadly, I think the young ones had lousy weather for the whole week but they still seemed to have enjoyed themselves. 

John and I caught a ferry back to Airlie, hired a car and did a road trip up to Townsville, about 300 km to the north. We returned to Airlie on Friday in time to take Essex Girl's lines as she came into the marina. David and Lucy had a friend with them, Darren, from the other boat and who had to get back to work before the others. We all had dinner together and then said good bye next morning. 

The fish!

Just got the anchor down  before the rain started.

Sunday roast on the boat.

Whales everywhere but no good photos!

We had a few lovely days sailing with friends Julie and Farley.  Both had sailed with us once on our old boat, Sankara and Farley had done a fair bit in his native America.  The weather forecast was not great – rather too much wind – and their visit was all too short.  We decided to head to Nara Inlet for the first night thinking that we should have a fairly calm night.  We had a glorious sail across, hard on the wind but made it on one tack.  We estimated the strength to be nearly 20 knots but our wind instruments were still not working following the incident with our neighbour’s mast.  We need not have worried about Julie and the strong wind.  She took the helm and managed it as if she had been doing it all her life and she enjoyed the exhilarating experience.  We sighted whales, reasonably close up, just an hour out of Airlie Beach.  Nara Inlet was not as calm as we would have liked which was a bit of a puzzle as, in theory, it should have been well sheltered from the SE swell.  Julie and Farley had never been to the Whitsunday Islands before so were keen to see Whitehaven beach.  Thus we plugged on down the next morning and initially picked up a buoy in Tongue Bay.  We took the dingy ashore and did the Hill Inlet walk and enjoyed the spectacular views from the lookouts over the Inlet and towards Whitehaven beach.  Then we walked down the other side on to the beach and enjoyed a walk along the wonderful white sand.  When we returned to the boat there was a fair bit of swell, as there often is here.  Those who read the blog regularly will have heard about some of our terrible nights in this bay!  We dropped the buoy and moved a little further down into the bay and anchored.  There was definitely less swell but during the night it got quite bad and we had an uncomfortable night.  However, if we were to see Whitehaven in the time available, we had no choice and we all agreed that it had been worthwhile.  Next day we made an early start (none of us were asleep anyway) and headed for Cateran Bay to snorkel.  We had a brisk sail up there and picked up a buoy.  We enjoyed the snorkelling but the water was 3-4 degrees colder that it had been a week or two earlier.  After lunch we made for Macona Inlet and, as we were considering anchoring, decided that there was too much swell so we headed back round into Nara.  Fortunately it was lovely and calm and we had a very peaceful night.  Next day we had a swift sail back to Airlie.  Julie hardly relinquished the helm for the entire time.  That suited all of us and Farley decided that he is a rope man and loved working the sheets and halyards.  He also turned out to be a fantastic wild life spotter and we had many whale sightings including a brief, but very close encounter as we approached Pioneer rocks on our return to Airlie.  We had dinner that evening in our favourite, Mr Bones and sadly said farewell to Julie and Farley next day.

Julie took the wheel as soon as we had raised our sails. 

She occasionally let Farley have a go.

About to do the Hill Inlet walk.

Things that go bump in the night

A strange thing happened today. We were awoken at 7.10 am by a loud bump. Our first thought was that something had hit us. We leapt out of bed, looked all around and could see nothing. There was very little wind, no marine traffic and we couldn't see anything untoward. Then someone shouted from the pontoon opposite "look up!"  This is what we saw:

Yes, the neighbour's mast had fallen on to ours! Yesterday a rigger had been working on the boat and had not finished the job but neither had he left things secure. Their mast had come to rest held up our forestay attachment. It has broken our wind instrument and scratched through the mast coating.  We were able to get in touch with the rigger who was able to quite quickly pull the mast upright again and fortunately our riggings were not tangled up. The owner was not on his boat but returned late morning and was somewhat alarmed everyone having told him about his mast falling down! 

I don't think we shall have any difficulty getting a new instrument paid for (they cost about $600). The rigger was very sheepish  and a bit shaken when he came and saw what had happened. We do need to contact our insurers and it is all a it tedious! John went up the mast later just to check that there was no major damage that we could not see from ground level. Our instruments are all working. We shall see what happens next! 

10 lovely days with friends from Melbourne

We were joined by Lisa and Bill for 10 days of excellent sailing. Lisa was new to sailing but Bill had raced dingies in his youth and sailed on something a little larger some years ago. The weather looked as if it might be a bit too windy but in the end we only had one day when we decided to stay put. The SE trades are blowing strong and consistently. We set off from Airlie on the day they arrived and beat down to Bauer Bay where we picked up a buoy at the deserted resort. We spent a peaceful night after a lovely sunset. Next morning it was another beat down to Shaw Island. We had decided to make our way down South so that we could then enjoy some down wind sailing with lots of stops while making our way North again. Also we knew that the forecast for day three was for 25-30 knot SE winds so we needed to be somewhere safe and sheltered. Not long after leaving Bauer we sighted our first whales, not very close but still exciting. By the time we reached Shaw it was blowing quite hard and we found a sheltered and calm sport for the night. Next morning, when the wind was blowing 25+ knots we planned to stay put but a nasty swell came in and we relocated further down the island nearer Burning Point. We spent the day at anchor reading, knitting and sewing. Next day it was Bill!s birthday and still quite windy but we decided to sail down to Thomas Island, one of my favourites. We had a good beat down with reefed sails but were well out of the wind and very comfortable once in the shelter of Thomas. Our original intention was just to have a swim, walk and lunch at Thomas and then return to Shaw for the night. However, it was so peaceful there that we stayed the night and took the risk of a swell coming in as it had done on previous occasions when anchored there. As we were having breakfast next morning we saw more whales. We set off for Whitehaven, down wind this time. The wind had moderated somewhat and we had a lovely sail. Bill and Lisa did all the sailing for the whole time while John and I just sat back and relaxed. I think that the only time one of us took the helm was when manoeuvring around buoys and anchors and entering and leaving the marina. What fantastic crew! We anchored off Whitehaven and Bill and Lisa went ashore while John and I swam from the boat. We then spent the night at Apostle Bay. It's the next bay up from Tongue and we had the bay to ourselves while Tongue had about 20 boats anchored. There are turtles everywhere. In the morning we had hoped to anchor off the northern end of Whitehaven off Hill inlet. However it was too shallow so we picked up a buoy in Tongue and went round the point in the dingy. We had a very wet ride!! We did the Hill Inlet walk while the tide was very low. We've never been there at that state of the tide and it looked very different but still very beautiful. Next morning we had a close encounter with a dugong as we left Tongue - very exciting. We made our way to Cateran Bay which we had to ourselves for a short time. Then others came and we had a bit of entertainment while a small motor boat made a complete hash of trying to anchor. The snorkelling was good although the water was definitely cooler than it was a couple of weeks ago. We went on in the afternoon to Macona Bay to anchor for the night.  The wind had dropped completely. It was a still, dark night with no moon and the stars were amazing. Just after dinner we were visited by a lone dolphin who swam around the boat. Next morning we sailed to Cid Harbour where we anchored and then went ashore in the dingy. We climbed Whitsunday Peak (434m). It's a steep climb for about 1 hour 20 minutes up but you are rewarded by a superb 360 degree view from the top. Next day we made our way back to Airlie beach. We started with a good breeze but it soon died away and we ended up motoring the last bit. We saw more whales. It's one of the best whale seasons ever. We had dinner ashore courtesy of Lisa and Bill and then very sadly said farewell to them next day. Hopefully they will be back to sail with us again at another time! 

Leaving Airlie beach. Lisa and Bill put to work straight away! 

Our first whale sighting.

Hill Inlet at low water.

Visited by a dolphin at night.

View from Whitsunday Peak.